Practical guide
How to measure a fixture
A handful of measurements will tell you whether a fixture fits your room, whether a shade fits a fixture, and help us identify what you have. Here are the ones worth taking — and how to take them.
Shade fitter size — the number that matters most
The fitter is the opening where a shade attaches to the fixture. Measure the inside diameter of that opening, not the widest part of the shade. The most common antique fitter is 2¼ inches; you'll also see 3¼-inch, 4-inch, and large 6-, 8-, and 10-inch fitters on schoolhouse and pan fixtures.
If you're buying or matching a shade, the fitter must match exactly — a beautiful shade with the wrong fitter simply won't mount.
Overall height (drop) and width
For a chandelier or pendant, measure from the ceiling canopy to the lowest point of the fixture for the drop, and across the widest span of the arms or shade for the width. Note whether the drop is adjustable — chain- and stem-hung fixtures usually are.
As a rule of thumb, a dining fixture hangs with its lowest point about 30–34 inches above the tabletop, and a fixture in an open room should leave at least 7 feet of floor clearance.
Chain, stem, and canopy
Record the chain or stem length separately from the body, since it's the easiest dimension to change. Measure the canopy diameter (the ceiling plate) to be sure it covers your electrical box.
For sconces, measure the backplate height and width and how far the fixture projects from the wall.
Ceiling height & box
Note your ceiling height and whether there's a standard electrical box. Most antique and reproduction fixtures mount to a standard box with a crossbar, but very heavy chandeliers may need a brace.
When in doubt, photograph the existing mounting before you remove anything — it makes installation (and any question to us) far easier.